Helpful Jetski Guides
Breaking in Your New Jet Ski Engine: Expert Guidelines
These instructions are universally applicable to all jet ski models, excluding RFI, DI, and 4-stroke equipped models. For DI models, refrain from adding oil to your fuel tank, and for new 4-stroke skis, consult your Owner’s Manual for recommended procedures.
It’s crucial to emphasize that NONE of the engine break-in can be done out of the water!
Proper Engine Break-In: A Key to Longevity and Performance
Breaking in your engine correctly is paramount in determining its longevity and performance. Engines not properly broken in are at risk of failure within the first few minutes of operation, often exhibiting symptoms like ring failure and piston seizure.
Pre-Mix System or Injection System? Adjusting Ratios
- Pre-Mix System: If you have a pre-mix system (mixing oil and fuel in the fuel tank), richen the ratio to about 32:1 for the first ten gallons of gas.
- Injection System: If you have an injection system (putting oil in a separate oil tank), use 50:1 premix in the fuel tank along with the oil injection system for the first ten gallons of gas.
Throttle Variation during the First 10 Gallons
- Idle Warm-Up: Initially, idle the engine for about 10 minutes to ensure proper warming up.
- Throttle Variation: Vary the throttle position up and down, keeping it up to 20% throttle for a half hour. Allow the engine to cool off completely for a good 30-minute break.
- Progressive Throttle Increase: After cooling down, ride up to 50% throttle for another half hour. Again, let the engine completely cool down.
- Gradual Throttle Advancement: Now, you can ride up to 90% throttle for the remainder of the 10 gallons, ensuring you never hold one throttle position for more than a few seconds. Avoid running at a steady throttle position and refrain from going to 100% throttle.
Post-Break-In Maintenance: Spark Plug Replacement
- Spark Plug Replacement: After the first tank of gas, replace your plugs with fresh ones.
Second Tank of Gas: Normal Riding with Caution
- Riding Conditions: For the second tank, ride normally with one exception – avoid holding it at 100% throttle for more than a few seconds.
Congratulations, You’re Fully Broken In!
After the second tank of gas, your jet ski engine is completely broken in, and you can now ride it however you like. Following these precise jetski guide lines ensures optimal performance and longevity for your new jet ski engine. Enjoy your rides!
Pre-Mix Stock Oil Ratios
If you have removed your oil pump and gone pre-mix, these are the correct ratios you should be mixing your gas to, after the first tank of engine break-in. These are the stock ratios the factory oil pumps put out at WOT:
32:1 = 4oz/gal
40:1 = 3.2oz/gal
50:1 = 2.5oz/gal
Yamaha
All but 800 & 1200pv 50:1
800 & 1200pv 32:1
Sea-doo
40:1
Kawasaki
50:1
Polaris
40:1
Tigershark
40:1
Stock Carburetor Settings
M=MAG (Magneto)(Front Carb)
C=Center (Middle Carb)
P=PTO (Power Take Off)(Rear Carb)
The high speed screws are higher than the low speed screws and they are on opposite sides of each carb.
Stock Carb Settings, all listed settings are turns out once screw is fully seated:
Sea-Doo
1988-1990
All – Low Speed – 1 ½
High Speed – 0
1991
SP – Low Speed – 1 ½
High Speed – 0
GT – Low Speed – 1 1/8
High Speed – 1/4
XP – Low Speed – 1 1/4
High Speed – 1/4
1992
SP – Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP/GTS/GTX – Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1993
SP/SPi – Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX/XP – Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTS/GTX – Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1994
SP/SPi/GTS – Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX/XP/GTX – Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1995
SP/SPi/GTS/GTX – Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX – Low Speed – 1 1/8 +/- 1/8
High Speed – 0
XP/HX – Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP800 – Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/8
High Speed – 0
1996
SP/SPi/SPX/GTS/GTi – Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP/GSX/GTX – Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
HX – Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1997
SP/XP – Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX/GS/GSi/GTS/GTi – Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
XP – Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
HX – Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTX – Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
1998
SPX/GSX – Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP/GSX Limited – Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
1997.5 GSX Limited (White) – Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTS – Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTI – Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTX Limited – Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
1999
SPX/GSX-L/XP-L/GTX-L – Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GS/GTS/GTi – Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 0
2000
GS/GTS/GTi – Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 0
/GTX/LRV/XP/RX – Low Speed – 1-1/2
High Speed – 0
2001
GS/GTS/GTi – Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 0
XP/RX/GTX/LRV – Low Speed – 1-1/2
High Speed – 0
Yamaha
500 – Low Speed – 1-1/4 +/- ¼
High Speed – ¾ +/- ¼
650 – Low Speed – 1-1/8 +/- ¼
High Speed – 1 – 1/8+/- ¼
700 – Low Speed – 5/8 +/- ¼
High Speed – 5/8(M), 1-1/8(P) +/- ¼
760 – Low Speed – 1-5/8 +/- ¼
High Speed – 3/8 +/- ¼
800 – Low Speed – 1-7/8 +/- ¼ (M),1-7/8 +/- ¼ (P)
High Speed – 1/2 +/- ¼
1100 – Low Speed – 1-1/8 +/- ¼
High Speed – 7/8 +/- ¼
1200 – Low Speed – 1-1/4 (M, C), 1-1/8 (P) +/- 1/4
High Speed – ½ (M, P), 7/8 (C) +/- ¼
1200R – not adjustable stock, Low: 1-1/8 All
High: MAG 1-1/4, CTR 1-1/4, PTO 1-1/2
Kawasaki
440 – Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 5/8
550 – Low Speed – 1-1/16 (M), 1 (P)
High Speed – 7/8 (M), 5/8 (P)
650 – Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 5/8
750 – Low Speed – ¾ +/- 1/4
High Speed – 1 ¼ +/- 1/4
800 – Low Speed – 7/8 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 3/4 +/- 1/4
900 – Low Speed – 1-1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – ¾ +/- ¼
1100 – Low Speed – 1-1/8 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
1200 – not adjustable
Polaris
1994
650 – Low Speed – 1-1/4
High Speed – 1
750 – Low Speed – 1/2
High Speed – 1 – ¼m, 3/8c, 7/8p
1995
650 – Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 1-1/8m, 1/4c, 7/8p
750 – Low Speed – 1/2
High Speed – 1m, 1/2c, 3/4p
780 – Low Speed – 1/2
High Speed – 7/8m, 3/4c, 1-1/8p
1996
700 – Low Speed – 5/8
High Speed – 1-1/2
Hurricane – Low Speed – 5/8
High Speed – not adjustable
SL780 – Low Speed – 5/8
High Speed – ¾m, 3/4c, 1p
SLT780 – Low Speed – 1-3/8
High Speed – 1-1/8m, 7/8c, 1-1/4p
SLX780 – Low Speed – 1-3/8
High Speed – 1-1/8m, 7/8c, 1-1/4p
900 – Low Speed – 5/8
High Speed – not adjustable
1050 – Low Speed – 1
High Speed – not adjustable
1997
SL700 – Low Speed – 7/8
High Speed – not adjustable
SLT700/Deluxe – Low Speed – 5/8
High Speed – 1-5/8 +/- 1/8
Hurricane – Low Speed – 5/8
High Speed – not adjustable
780 – Low Speed – 1-1/4
High Speed – 1/8
900 – Low Speed – 5/8
High Speed – not adjustable
SL1050 – Low Speed – 7/8
High Speed – not adjustable
SLTX – Low Speed – 1
High Speed – not adjustable
1998
700 – Low Speed – 1-7/8
High Speed – not adjustable
1200 – Low Speed – 1-3/4
High Speed – not adjustable
2000
SLX/Pro 1200/Virage TX – Low speed – 1 1/8
High Speed – not adjustable
Genesis – Low speed – 1 1/4
High Speed – not adjustable
Tigershark
640 – Low Speed – 7/8
High Speed – no adjustment
770 – Low Speed – 1-1/8
High Speed – 5/8
900 – Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 1
1000 – Low Speed – 3/4
High Speed – no adjustment
1100 – no data
Winterizing Your 2- Stroke Jet Ski: Comprehensive Jetski Guide
If you’re planning to store your jet ski for a few months or more, proper winterization is essential. This process aims to prevent internal engine parts from rusting and ensures that the fuel in your ski doesn’t break down and oxidize. If you would rather watch a video and use this guide for reference checkout the videos below:
Step 1: Stabilize the Fuel
Start by adding fuel stabilizer to the tank, which you can find at any marine or auto supply store. Follow the ratio mentioned on the stabilizer bottle and top off the tank with the stabilized fuel. After this, run the stabilized fuel through the lines and carbs, either during the engine flush or on your last ski trip. Ensure you’ve run it enough to pump the stabilized fuel through the carbs.
Step 2: Engine Flushing and Fogging
Flush the engine as usual, but this time, fog the motor just before blowing out excess water. Connect the flush kit, start the engine, and turn on the water. Let the craft run for about 5 minutes at idle to flush out the cooling system. Refer to the below videos for detailed flush procedures and engine fogging:
To fog the ski, use a can of Fogging Oil available at dealers or auto parts stores. Spray the foaming oil into the air intake or directly through the carbs to coat the engine internally with a protective oil layer. Spray down each carb for 30 seconds. For skis without direct access, pour a heavy amount of oil down the plug holes and turn the motor over several times. After fogging, add 1oz of two-stroke oil into each spark plug hole and turn the motor over a few times.
Once fogging is complete, turn off the water hose, blip the throttle a couple of times, and shut off the motor.
Step 3: Exhaust Pipe Drainage and Lubrication
For some skis like the 770’s, drain the exhaust pipe. Locate the 10mm fitting under the rear of the pipe and remove it to let the water drain out. Lubricate all the ski’s grease fittings and cables using a grease gun and cable luber. Focus on the drive train’s grease points, including PTO, pump, and drive shaft holder.
Step 4: Battery Maintenance
When all the lubing is complete, then you should remove the battery and place it on a proper 3-5 amp battery charger. We recommend a Battery Charger not just a Battery Maintainer. You can buy a battery charger at motorcycle shops, or several places online like Amazon and Ebay.
Do not use a basic battery maintainer, they typically only maintain the battery at the voltage it is at when you put it on charge. You do want to be sure you use a charger that has an auto shutoff function so that it shuts off when it reaches the proper charge level and turns on when it drops below the proper level. Maintain the battery’s electrolyte levels with distilled water if it is an acid filled battery.
Optional Step for Sea-Doo Owners: Pump Oil Change
If you own a Sea-Doo, change the pump oil annually during winterization. Refer to the below video for instructions:
Final Step: Cleaning and Covering
Once all internal work is complete, wash your jet ski and cover it for storage.
Happy winterizing!